Neat joints are the difference between “homemade” and professional carpentry. The secret is not one magic tool, but a consistent workflow: accurate marking, controlled cutting, careful fitting, and a clean glue-up. Start with good stock preparation. Square, flat boards make every joint easier, so joint and plane your lumber (or check it with a straightedge). Choose the joint that matches the load: butt joints need reinforcement (screws, dowels, biscuits), dados and rabbets add strength for shelves and boxes, and mortise-and-tenon or dovetails handle heavy stress. Marking is where accuracy begins. Use a sharp pencil or marking knife, a combination square, and a marking gauge. Reference every measurement from the same face and edge to avoid cumulative errors. For shoulder lines, a knife line gives your saw or chisel a physical groove to register against. Cut slightly proud and fit to the line. When sawing, keep the blade just on the waste side. Clean up with a sharp chisel or shoulder plane, checking frequently. Aim for a “hand pressure” fit: tight enough to hold alignment, but not so tight that it splits the wood or starves the glue. During glue-up, do a dry fit first, then apply glue evenly (brush or roller) and clamp with cauls to keep parts flush. Measure diagonals to confirm squareness and wipe squeeze-out before it hardens. Finally, refine transitions with light sanding and break sharp edges for a crisp, finished look.
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